(1) Authenticity at its Finest?

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Growing up in Toronto; a vibrant city known for its multiculturism where we are surrounded by small distinct cultural hub communities that present a vast variety of delicious, mouth-watering, “authentic ethnic dishes” for us to experience, indulge, and unleash our inner-foodie. Being born into the Indian culture, I was exposed to traditional Indian cuisine from a very young age. I can smell the spice, onions, aromas and all the flavors from a mile away!

Living in the world with mass globalization and commercialization of food; people often argue about authenticity in food, especially if they have travelled or tried home-cooked versions of ethnic dishes. We are fortunate to live in a multi-cultural city with many diverse dining options, but there is still an ongoing quest to find “the most authentic food”. But what does “authentic” really mean? Can it be defined? Does it really matter, if it’s not authentic cuisine, but it taste delicious?

Authenticity in general, let alone in food, is an objective phenomenon. The only way it can be measured is relative to the context in which it was made and whether it was available. 

 

Everyone has their own interpretation and experience to eating “authentic ethnic dishes”. The definitions of what “authentic ethnic dishes” is built through our past experiences, our social environment, and mainstream media.

Some people often hold what they grew up with as a golden standard for authentic cuisine for example, Jack Astor’s version of “Butter Chicken”, in my opinion is not authentic Indian cuisine, it is merely a production for uniqueness added to the menu. The other gold standard for authenticity is what people bring back after travelling to the place where the dish originated. We have all met individuals like this in our lifetime; just because one has tried sushi in Japan, croissants in Paris, chicken tikka masala in India, does not necessarily make him or her a connoisseur of that food. 

 

Authentic dishes ingredients, techniques, methods, recipes and traditions evolve with time, place, chefs and plates. Quite often, recipes are regional, or even unique to cities. It is also unreasonable to bring these standards of authenticity to an ethnic table outside of its origin. 

 

When considering foods outside of their natural context—that is, foods eaten in a country or region that of where they do not originate—the question of authenticity and what it means to be "authentic" is always a vexing one. Ethnic food that is made outside of its natural context can be deemed as inauthentic by default. Think about it, ingredients and resources are limited and vary from place to place, so just like the “eat local” movement which is “as local as possible”, so is the goal for “authenticity”. Ethnic food is often “as authentic as possible” given the available ingredients. Global ingredients can be hard to source and local ingredients just taste different so to replicate flavours of a different country is nearly impossible. 

 

The ultimate question is, what does it mean to eat authentic cuisine and more precisely, is it even possible for authenticity to be preserved across the many barriers of language mapping, social custom, and regional tastes? What's the verdict? Food doesn't have to be "authentic" to be delicious—though it certainly helps to maintain the spirit of the cuisine, culture, and history. The concept of “authentic cuisine” has unquestionably pushed food forward in this nation, exposing millions of new flavors, ingredients and spices that no one imagined or experienced. 

 

Growing up in Toronto as a South Indian, I have experienced, tasted, and compared Indian cuisine from the times I went to India, to all the Indian and non-Indian restaurants (that serve “modified versions of Indian cuisine”) in Toronto- and I can say for sure, there is a vast difference in flavor, spice, presentation and style of the food. So, are we really eating “authentic cuisine”? Or is time we moved beyond authentic, towards a more malleable, and perhaps delicious, cuisine instead.

(2) Herbs and Spices: Indian versus Ukrainian Cuisine

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Compared to the spicy Indian Cuisine, some may say that Ukrainian cuisine is a walk in the park. Or simply put bland. I beg to differ. Increased spiciness in foods can be overwhelming and overpowering to other simpler flavors like chicken. Sometimes it takes away from the actual flavor of the food itself to a point where I don't even taste the main component of the food, I only taste that burning sensation from the saucy and spicy flavor surrounding it.

My usual herbs and spice palette:

• Allspice:  A spice of ground whole berries. The flavor is a blend of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. It is generally used in sausages, braised meat and poultry dishes, poached fish, pickles and relishes, stewed fruit, cakes, cookies, pastries and breads. It really is an, all spice.
  

• Bay Leaf: A ground herb of whole dried leaves. It is one of the most important herbs for creating a strong flavor in meat stews, poultry dishes, pickles, stuffing’s and most importantly, soups.
  

• Parsley: A dried or fresh herb that I use in soups, salads, any and every meat. 
  

• Caraway: A whole seed spice with a sharp taste. It is commonly used in breads, sauerkraut and cabbage dishes. On occasion it will be used to flavor pork and other meats.
  

• Cardamom: A ground seeded whole pod spice with a sweet and aromatic flavor. It is used in sweet dill pickles, cookies, coffee cakes and many pastries. 
  

• Celery Seed: whole ground spice creating a slight bitterness to meats, cheeses, egg and fish dishes, barbecued sauces, Cole-slaws and tomato products.
  

• Chives: This fresh herb looks grass-like and contains a mild onion flavor. It is used in salads, cheese dishes, soups, and dip garnishes.
  

• Cinnamon: One of my personal favorite spices, comes ground up or in whole sticks. It gives off a pungent aroma, and it added to ham, lamb, sweet potatoes, and a variety of fruit dishes, breads and pastries.
  

• Dill: Used as a fresh or dried herb. I commonly partner it up with parsley. It is used in salad dressings and salads, dips, fish dishes, on vegetables, sauerkraut, soups especially and as a garnish.
  

• Cloves: Spice. Whole, ground. Pungent, warm, sweet aroma. Used in marinades, stocks, sauces, meat, poultry and barbecue dishes, sweet vegetables, pickles and relishes, fruits, breads, cookies, desserts, candies, as garnish. 
  

• Coriander: Spice. Whole, ground. Slightly lemony flavor and aroma. Used in sausage, pork, pickles, breads, cookies, cakes, gingerbread. 
  

As you can see, Ukrainian food is generally not considered spicy, if anything it tends to lie more on the sweet side of things. At the other end of the spectrum, is the Indian cuisine considered to be spiced and spicy with a unique set of curries.

Top 10 spices of Indian cuisine:

• Turmeric: A bright yellow spice generally used in South and North Indian cooking. It is made from boiled, dried, and polished roots of the turmeric plant. It is used most commonly in Kashmiri dishes for flavor and color in curry powders. 
  

• Coriander:  Also known as "Dhaniya" in India. It is a delicate herb with a sweet aroma. Most commonly used in Indian Dals (dried legumes and pulses), Rasam, Sambar, soups and curries. The fresh coriander leaves are used as a garnish on top of finished dishes.
  

• Cumin: This is India's annual herb known as "Jeera". It is a cooking flavoring for curry powders, seasonings of breads, cakes and cheese, and as a condiment. Used in small quantities in most dishes it merely enhances the dish further. Often the cumin seeds are heated and roasted which gives off its robust flavor and aroma. 
  

• Mustard Seeds: This herb is annually cultivated as an oil seed crop, vegetable, condiment and spice. They are either tiny black, pale yellow, white or brown balls that release a full flavor when roasted. It is used in south Indian cooking as part of the Tadka (a cooking technique where you cook whole seeds in oil to heighten flavor). The ground mustard is used for flavor in Bengali fish curries.
  

• Curry:  This common spice adds flavor to popular Southern Indian dishes. It is spicy and often used in sauces to marinate tandoori and tikka kabobs.
  

• Tamarind: This flavor originate from a ripe tamarind fruit. It is used as a condiment and adds a sour and acidic taste to dishes.  
  

• Cinnamon: Cinnamon sticks are used in Indian cooking for the preparation of Pulao (Pilaf), Biryanis and certain curries. Chips or ‘quills’ are scraped peel of the inner bark of the mature cinnamon shoot which is dried in the sun and then in the shade. The fragrance is sweet, earthy and a warm enjoyable taste.
  

• Black Cardamom: Is a black dried fruit used whole as well as ground, generally known for its pungent and smoky aroma. It is often referred to as the "queen of all spices". Different from the green cardamom, the black cardamom is used in the preparation of Dals, Curries, Biryanis and the famous Indian Garam Masala or ‘hot spices’ which not only include Black Cardamom but bay leaves, black pepper, black cumin, cinnamon, cloves, mace and nutmeg.
  

• Red Chili Powder: This spice is the "king of all spices” and gives foods a "kick". Chili is the dried ripe fruit used in the infamous Indian curry dishes.
  

It is no surprise that Indian food can be so spicy! The combination of these spices would make anyone's mouth burn!

(3) Time to Travel to India?

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“What’s for dinner tonight?” Well we are having cumin, coriander and cardamom; mustard, mango powder, ginger; asafetida, fenugreek and chilies. And then there's turmeric, tamarind and saffron, curry leaf, coconut milk and kewara water, almonds, cashews and pistachios – and the infamous red chilli powder and turmeric powder and all of these are just the seasonings for our dinner! Indian cuisine, perhaps the only cuisine that incorporates a riot of sensory stimulation at meal time! Indian food represents intense flavors and aroma, in addition to, it also presents regional influences (climate and elevation), history and religion.

The most common Indian cuisine is the flat bread “naan” and the heavy use of dairy products. Beyond this, there are vast differences of Indian cuisine regionally. Some areas in India that had access to waterways, their dishes incorporated sea-food. My family is from the North-West part of India (specifically from the province of Gujarat) – my parents grew up eating wheat and other grains, rarely ever ate meat. They had meat dishes on special occasions. The famous “samosas” are usually triangular fried (they taste better fried then baked) pastries with savoury filling, ground chicken, lamb, beef, potatoes, onion, peas and lentils - my parents would have samosa 2-3 times a year. I can have my mom’s homemade samosas every weekend if I wanted to!
Indian menu at many restaurants incorporate dishes that many Indians don’t eat on a daily basis. Many of these dishes are only eaten on special occasions. But because of the mass production of traditional and occasional dishes in restaurants, non-Indians are misguided to believe that Indians in India eat like kings and queens on a daily basis. The ethnic cuisines presented in restaurants are not common meals for many Indians. For example, eating tandoori chicken (chicken marinated in a variety herbs and spices), butter chicken (chicken breast marinated overnight in a yoghurt spice mixture and cooked in makhni sauce garnished with white butter, cream, chillies and fenugreek leaves), biryani (basmati rice cooked with chicken with a blend of exotic spices and herbs), kheer (a rice dessert), and lamb karahi (meat prepared with fresh green chillies, garlic, tomatoes, cooked in a spicy aromatic sauce) – are considered luxurious food cuisine in India, and are eaten only on special occasions like at a wedding or an engagement party!

The strongest influence of Indian dining is dictated through religious beliefs, which is the main reason my parents grew up eating wheat, grains, fruits and vegetables. The prominent religion in India, is Hinduism- determines what kinds of meat people can eat. Beef is strictly forbidden- today in India, it is illegal to slaughter a cow anywhere in the country. That leaves most Indians eating goat, chicken and mutton. Muslims are a minority in India, their minimal religious restrictions incorporate two things – prohibition against alcohol and pork. However, their religion Islam encourages zakat, or the sharing of food with others, and that’s where the importance of practising hospitality plays a critical role in dining. We see this in many Indian restaurants we go to!

(4) You are what you eat: On the outside looking Indian

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On the outside I look like a white Canadian with her white race family. But when we eat authentic Indian cuisine, my family and I become connoisseurs of India’s finest foods. We become part of a bigger picture. All of the sudden our white race becomes blurred and European ethnicity is disregarded. Our appearance in an Indian restaurant is replaced by ideas of acceptance and willingness to participate in a culture that is clearly different from our own, thereby individualizing our conformity to Indian culture. We join a new network of ethnic possibility. A simple Indian restaurant transforms to symbolize a perception of India’s art, elegance, and cultivation. By partaking in India’s symbolism, my family and I are assigned new characterizations that disregard stereotypical “white” uncultured identity. Alternatively, ideas of ignorance and lack of acceptance are thrown out the window. We enter India’s world of cultural practice and tradition followed during a meal.

Walking into this restaurant had a unique feel to it. We were helped by a kind waitress, whom led us to a table for six. My experience was paradoxical. Even though we stood out like sore thumbs, I felt a sense of connectivity and continuity. While walking past all the families eating at their tables and enjoying their meals I could not help but notice the racial difference. We were the only “white” family in the entire restaurant. Next, I inevitably noticed a language difference. It sounded quick, short and to the point type of speech, not at all like what my sisters seemed to be chatting on and on about unknowingly. The smell of spices filled my nose and made all of our mouths water. Embarrassingly, my dad even felt the need to point and ask the waitress what entrees the other families ordered. The dishes were unique in the sense that you order an entrée to share rather than everyone ordering their own meal plate. It reminded me of dinners at home where you pass around the same plates and bowls of different courses of the meal. Sharing. Something that my brother has always found difficult to do. Then we ordered what the waitress interestingly considered standard Indian dishes such as; butter chicken, tandoori chicken, chicken tikka masala, pakora (fried vegetable) , kaali daal (black lentils) and of course plenty of naan bread. When we received our dishes my dad was worried that we didn’t order enough, however the concept of dipping our naan bread into all of the rich saucy dishes was surprisingly very filling. I looked around at other tables and noticed that most were eating without utensils and using their naan bread and other cracker type foods to scoop up the main dishes. The only time I actually saw someone use a fork and knife was when they were cutting or splitting up portions for everyone at the table. Strange. When I pointed out the lack of cutlery usage we all felt the need and curiosity to participate in this authentic practice. We did our best. Old habits die hard though. I occasionally reverted back to fork, knife and spoon, wondering how odd we looked to everyone else.

Then the connectedness and continuity dawned on me as the family beside us was celebrating what I thought was a birthday. We were here to celebrate a special occasion just like the other family. Yes our skin is different, and we don’t know how to eat this food, and the spiciness made me drink a total of 8 glasses of water, the music was odd, yet when I looked around we were out to have dinner just like any other family in the restaurant. My mom was telling my younger brother and sister to eat their vegetables just like every other mother. My younger brother and sister were also rolling their eyes just like any other kid in the restaurant. My dad was enjoying his food, also attempting to support what my mom was saying but also half distracted in a conversation with me. My mom busy reprimanding my brother to finish his food and stop being “uncultured”, being told to use his manners. All these aspects are universal. People are just people, and food brings people together.

(5) Spicing up my life with Indian cuisine: In the eyes of the beholder

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After such a successful dinner outing with my family at the last Indian cuisine restaurant, I decided to go once more on this cultural quest, just this time I ordered more mild foods. I was more comfortable the second time around with respect to knowing a little bit about what the dishes looked like, foods that I enjoyed and didn’t, how to order, practiced more dipping and scooping, and generally understood the authenticity of the atmosphere. However I found myself questioning what exactly did I like about this place? This restaurant seemed to have a strong community. Everyone that walked in seemed to be a regular customer, as if they were saying “I’ll have the usual, thank you”. It was popular, most of the tables were filled, waiters and waitresses were constantly walking around busy, everyone generally looked happy to be out, happy with their food, and happy with the service. So why did I feel like I was being uniquely authentic? Yes Indian food is out of my comfort zone of food choices but why is it that I deem it so unique and individualized if it seems to be so popular among the people? Our constant quest for authenticity and exclusivity for distinguishing ourselves as individuals is a concept that I have yet to grasp. Is it actually unique? What makes this restaurant so authentic? Fully dependent on all five senses, I started focusing, beginning intra-personally first.

• Sight: dim lighting, candles lit, elephant statues, other unrecognizable statues, unique paintings on the walls, the look of saucy foods, families sitting at dinner tables sharing food and enjoying each other’s presence.
• Smell: The spicy scent of the food
• Hear: Indian music lightly playing in the background drowned out by random conversations, yet surprisingly wasn’t all that loud and distracting to my own conversation with my sister
• Feel: Overall a calming effect washed over my entire body (probably because I rely heavily on my sight) heating the sweet sense of differentiation and destroying the feeling of mass production and commercialization.

In my opinion the message is in the medium of this restaurant, saying to its clientele to come experience the serenities of India while you eat. I thought I escaped the mass regulations and productions of fast-food, commercialized culture, but authentic Indian food has become its own massive cultural expression. The restaurant played with all my senses in order to manipulate the feelings of escaping commercialized productions like Harvey’s or McDonalds. I was onto something I could feel it.

Later that day I was buying groceries and low and behold homemade butter chicken in a jar for your authentic enjoyment. I laughed! Authentic?!? ……I bought the jar. Instructions were basically put into a two-step meal:

1. Sauté the chicken
2. Add the sauce in the jar to the sautéed chicken.

A classic commercialized and originally authentic dish made into a two-step cooking process for the “restaurant-type” results.

(6) I'm so "Cultured" - Are you, really?

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“Our restaurant gives you the chance to experience India as it should be experienced” – a common tag line used by many Indian restaurants.

Walking through the front doors, a burst of aromas rushes through my nose- for a spilt second in time my brain is overwhelmed in computing which smell is from where- as if there are millions of smells running through my head! As I grasp every smell, I’m set back with the beautiful intricate décor at the restaurant. The dim lights, the vibrant colours of the room, the deep red, maroon, gold, statues, drapery – is this what India really looks like? Ugh… NO!

The restaurant is designed in a way that creates an environment where individuals are surrounded with the belief that they are in India. Just for a split second. Until reality hits home (for me anyway). 

 

Restaurants try their best to display a certain ideology of the country's ethnicity, cultural and authentic cuisine. However, a restaurant, is a business – it needs to generate a profit. The authenticity of cultural food, is changed to meet the economic demands of the business. The more authentic it appears to be, the more revenue for the business. 
 

The authenticity of cultural food, now meets the demands of customers since customer service is an integral part of any business. The success of ethnic food depends on the participation of its audience. Now we have restaurants like Jack Astor’s and the Pickle Barrel selling, in my opinion “bootleg” versions of butter chicken – thus the whole debate with “authenticity at its finest” (the first blog). Restaurant food is so dependent on the clientele and the environment, that it is impossible to truly have authentic foods outside the country of origin. The food served at many ethnic cultural restaurants reflects the demand for a Canadianized version/twist. The balance between the exotic and the comfortable is crucial to appeal to us!

The great thing about Indian food, it is meant to eat without any utensils. Throw away your fork, knife and spoon! And bring on your fingers! Eating Indian cuisine with your fingers, has been part of the Indian culture and etiquette for centuries. If you are eating naan with a fork and knife- and dipping the naan into a plate of butter chicken – that isn’t the Indian culture! Plus you are missing out on the entire experience of eating with your hands!

We eat at restaurants to satisfy the desire for an “exotic” experience. We want something new, exciting and exhilarating, but at the same time we do not want to be taken too far out of their comfort zone! We want to show our family, friends, colleagues and the rest of the world (through the help of social networking websites), that “I am very cultured”. Eating out at ethnic restaurants that do not match your ethnicity, demonstrates how adventurous you are, open minded, accepting and willing you are to try new cuisine. For some of us trying out new cuisines is a form of self-expression, for others it is merely to take a couple of bites of the ethnic food and post it on instagrams in order to display how “culturally invested you are”. In this premise, food is no longer enjoyed for itself. Food now takes a new form, where it displays a status. For instance, I am the only one in my family (including cousins) that loves sushi – this makes me more “culturally invested” then the rest of my family. 

Living in a world with a fast growing economy, globalization, commercialization, fetish-ism, commodification and mass mediation keeps us up to date with the daily news, what’s hot and what’s not in pop culture. The possibilities of obtaining information are enormous- from television, internet, radio, billboards, newspapers, magazines and so on are everywhere around us. These mediums, reproduce the Indian culture- from music, language, clothing style and food.

(7) Commercializing the "Home-cooked" Meal: Coming back to “home-made

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We have an obsession over seeking home-cooked and home-made meals. What is it about attaching the words “home-made” that gives that automatic trusting and warm feeling inside? This sense of belonging and inclusiveness brings a smile to my face undoubtedly. What exactly does home-made mean? If I buy a cake mix, add all the ingredients and bake it, is it still considered to be home-made? What if I make my own frosting, then is it considered home-made? I feel like the term home-made and home-cooked is incredibly subjective, so why the obsession to call everything home-made?

Ideas of a home are stipulated by a dominating group, replicated and re-invented to fit the modern family. Stereotypically a home is comforting. It is somewhere you always come back to at the end of the day, because it is safe and filled with pleasant memories with your family. A home is not just a place you live, it is the place you belong. It is filled with family and invited friends. Sound familiar?

The Meaning of Home

Home is a place where I can rest my head.

Home is a place where I can sleep, smell, hear and play.

Home is a place where memories are made.

At home I smell the salty smell of chicken soup.

At home I feel the warm blankets.

At home I see my family.

At home I hear my mother, father, friends and family.

Now I truly know the meaning of home.

By Grande Prairie

Interestingly Grande Prairie uses the five senses to describe the atmospheric feel of what a home is. Generally everyone that I have confronted claims that a home is a place where they are happy, safe, and with family. Assuming that everyone gets along with family that is. A picture of what a home “should be” is painted in all of our minds, yet it remains subjective. There is no right answer. People commonly say that their moms take the responsibility of preparing meals yet ironically there seem to be more male master chefs. Why? Focusing on this “home” people have a loving feeling when they talk about what a home is, or what they feel it should be. What better way to sell food than to offer this same cultural sense of love and support? To put it bluntly, restaurants are sending the following messages:

If you eat this, you will also be loved and supported. 

This food was made with the love and support of family. 

You too will be able to enjoy the same feeling.

I will now paint a stereotypical picture of a nuclear family where there are two heterosexual parents and two kids. Imagine, it is fall, you live with your two parents, and you have a sibling. As you walk home from school your mother is preparing a “home-cooked” meal. As you walk into this home, you notice a pot of soup on the stove-top simmering, your nose is filling with the familiar scents of herbs and spices from your childhood, and your mother is smiling in her apron and welcoming you into the house with a warm hug. Then she kisses you on the forehead and asks how school was. Your father just walks in the door, hangs up his coat, greets your mother with slight affectionate kisses and smiles at you as he goes to wash his hands before dinner. Your sibling arrives last and everyone gathers around the table over a “home-cooked” meal. During the fantastically flavorful and fresh meal everyone shares their stories and daily experiences with laughing and smiles. Does this sound like your home? 

Saying that something is home-made adds the idea of love, acceptance and support from your family into the picture of food. As you pass around familiar hot dishes you attach feelings to those dishes. They become symbols of hard work and love. What unloving mother would cook a meal for her family? It all boils down to selling this idea of a perfect family together, sharing, and caring. Home-cooked also adds the idea of carefully planned love being put into that meal, and because of this love it must be fresh and healthy for your consumption.